![]() Thursday will also see the launch of Rabanne, the new identity for the label formerly known as Paco Rabanne. The label parted ways with former creative director Bruno Sialleli earlier this year and will reportedly bring in guest designers for main collections going forward. Meanwhile, at Lanvin, the rapper Future will be presenting his guest-capsule for the house in a day-long presentation on Thursday, September 28. That evening, Stefano Gallici will be launching his new vision for Ann Demeulemeester-the second debut in as many seasons after Ludovic de Saint Sernin exited after his fall 2023 collection. Her show is scheduled for Saturday, September 30. On Wednesday, September 27, Marni, the Italian label helmed by Francesco Risso, will be making a stop in the City of Light as part of its global world tour-the last two seasons Risso put on shows in Tokyo and New York City.Īlso bringing energy to the Paris calendar is Louise Trotter, who recently stepped into the creative director role at Carven after leaving Lacoste. Though for the most part the schedule is very much business as usual, there are a few surprises. He means business.The Paris Fashion Week schedule is out today and with it, fashion week plans can finally be fully realized. ![]() Sialelli’s global mindset feels like a real expansion of Lanvin. One of Jeanne Lanvin’s original robes de style from 1924 was, in fact, adorned with chinoiserie embroideries-and you could easily draw parallels between that silhouette and the traditional hanbok dresses of Korea. I think it expresses something that’s interesting to re-contextualize today.” Discussing his silhouettes, he mentioned “a certain rigidity,” explaining, “from the beginning, I’ve thought about characters like Maggie Cheung or Anna May Wong, who have this put-together attitude very neat. “Art Deco’s three words were order, geometry, and color. It’s interesting to observe the pendants between the 1920s and the 2020s,” Sialelli reflected. It became a huge company with hundreds of employees, ateliers, cosmetics, and everything. “Lanvin was at its strongest in between the World Wars. There was a porcelain-doll quality about it, which permeated a full-bodied collection covered in glistening embroideries, lattice-work, chainmail, and sumptuous prints, nearly all of which were fished out of Lanvin’s gene pool in one way or another. Like any element of Art Deco-a genre that passionately divides tastes, and will with this collection, too-its structure wasn’t for shrinking violets. I like to look at iconography and feel what it is and just do something out of it that’s modern,” Sialelli explained. But we’ve never seen this dress in real life, we’ve never tried it on. For his Paris previews, Sialelli had taken out the former home of the chocolate baron Henri Menier, an hôtel particulier so odd and ornate it felt like walking into a gingerbread house. In fact, the kooky universe they’re giving him the freedom to build at Lanvin is starting to feel a lot like the early beginnings of Alessandro Michele’s multidimensional (and very lucrative) Gucci. Suffice to say Sialelli’s bosses are not dull. Lanvin is owned by Fosun International, the Chinese conglomerate with such eclectic subsidiaries as the Wolverhampton Wanderers and Cirque du Soleil. ![]() It’s good for us to federate our community there.” “And to be very pragmatic, this is the market that is going to drive growth in luxury in general. “We can do a proper event there with hundreds of people,” Bruno Sialelli said during a preview in Paris, two weeks before he shipped his pre-styled Lanvin show to Shanghai and live-streamed it from the historic Yu Garden. Post-pandemic, staging your fashion show there is pretty much a win-win scenario. Pre-pandemic, China was the new shopping center of the world. As far as fashion is concerned, there’s beautiful irony to the fact that China was the first country to return to a sense of normalcy after the coronavirus outbreak.
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